Another Genesis Question.

[plpflyboy]

Thanks Dave. I have noticed that I will have to play with the cg and maybe strut angle a small bit. I did put the shrink tubing on along with some silicone and threadlock on the 4 transom bolts. All other hardware was removed and reinstalled with locktite. Has anyone used the RC Blitz rudder upgrade with the dual water pickups?

[1945dave]

Congrats, knew it would be something simple.

Oh guys I didnt so much worry about cg for the run I made this morning. I think Dave hit the nail on the head with the ESC dropping my throttle range. Reprogramed that along with moving the prop up and now this thing scoots. At full throttle the right sponson likes to dig a little bit, but the boat moves and now I can work on the CG range.

Good job! Now you can deal with the other issues that come with higher performance.

Watch if you collect water inside the boat, this is another popular problem with the Genesis. From the photos you posted you already have the shrink tubing over the nose of the strut, that helps big time. The next area of focus is the mounting bolts on the transom. Even though you tighten them the wood reinforcement plate inside the boat compresses with use, and the bolts need to be retightened and resealed with silicon sealer.

Dave

[plpflyboy]

Oh guys I didnt so much worry about cg for the run I made this morning. I think Dave hit the nail on the head with the ESC dropping my throttle range. Reprogramed that along with moving the prop up and now this thing scoots. At full throttle the right sponson likes to dig a little bit, but the boat moves and now I can work on the CG range.

[JonD]

The 0.33 - 0.31 where exactly are you getting this reference point .

This is the distance from the rear of the sponson (not the transom), in relation to the total length of the sponson. i.e the total length of the Genesis sponson is abo ut 832mm, therefore for example 0.33 would be 0.33 x 832 = 275mm.

[plpflyboy]

OK I will adjust my times accordingly thanks.

[lenny]

Do not go any lower than 3.70 per cell,
Or you may start making the cells swell up.

[plpflyboy]

3.4- 3.8 per cell Dont have a chart so best I can remember. I dont run the boat hard. Not racing at the moment, just running with friends. I have not ran it but 3 times with the current setup and all trying to get it setup.

[lenny]

What do the cells read at the end of the 5 minute run,
Or when you put them on the charger ?

[plpflyboy]

After each run or adjustment I do check my temps. Not so much battery voltage. As a rule of thumb I try to keep my runs to 5 minutes total on each pack. Gonna try and give her a run tomorrow weather permitting. Thanks

[lenny]

It is called calibrating the throttle range of the transmitter,
As for the LVC you could just set it to off and time your run's for 3 minutes.
Than just check the cells with a tester to see where they are at,
And also check all the temps to.
If those packs are in good shape and the boat is trimmed out right.
You should see about 5 minutes of run time and may be more.

[plpflyboy]

Hmm that could definatly be part of my problem. I do have a programing card and have the values on it set. I will re read the manual and look at setting the throttle end points. So you set the LVC for 3 volts per cell? I was always told to keep it up around 3.4 or so for a buffer. I have flown planes and helicopters (mostly gas) and kinda out of my element on this boat stuff. Also I did move the strut up father with the best flat surfaces I could find. Removed the prop and rudder and set it on multiple tables and even the wall lol. Living in a apartment isnt the best for model building and setup. The prop comes extremely close to the rudder support bracket but does not touch. Thanks for the help guys. Off to read some more and possibly call Dave.

[1945dave]

I am grasping at straws here but:

Are you sure the speed control is set correctly? That is are you sure you are getting full throttle? We have had a few guys on this forum not get full throttle and I believe many had the T-180 ESC as well.

Been a while but I have several of the T-180's and have not had any real problems but using the programming card does not set the range of throttle response. That needs to be done with the transmitter and involves listening for the proper beeps while you set the full range of response for the throttle/stick movements. One guy was only getting about half his throw. That would cause your problem big time. If on the water you can tell the transmitter to go half speed and let the boat settle out at half speed and then pull the trigger or push up the stick from there and get very little extra performance that could be your problem.

Regarding the T-180 speed controls they are famous for having a inaccurate voltage cutoff point. I beat myself up trying to figure out why my first T-180 speed control dropped down to half speed so quickly and it turned out to be the value for safe voltage drain for the lipo batteries. It should be 3.0 volts per cell (4S equals 4 times 3 for 12 volts) and just because you set that correctly with the programming card (the default is 3.2 volts) and with proper testing you will find manytimes T-180's drop down to safe mode far too soon. If you need further clarification on this give me a call and I can try to explain this better.

Dave

[Fluid]

You need to use a FLAT table top to set the strut. Many tables are not really flat near the edges, this can lead to the strut being angled down or up fro parallel to the sponson bottoms. One or two degress can make the difference. If you angle the strut up a little at the prop end it will help to lift the bow, but too much is not good. BEst to start with a known flat surface/setup.

I would not prop up yet. The 445 is a good size, I'm just not familiar with the lifting characteristics of the FC props. If they have more lift than an Octura prop then you will need to angle the strut up at the prop end.



.

[plpflyboy]

The tapered prop nut came with the kit I bought to upgrade the shaft. Will find a replacement. And those would be ec5 connectors. I use them for simplicity over any other reason. The batteries and what not all have 10 gauge wire. I believe it is something simple myself and am overlooking it that's why I am here. Temps are Luke warm on wires, esc, and motor after about 4 laps around a smallier sized pond. A friend thinks I need to prop up. Batteries are 4s and I can run them as a single or parallel. Will try to move the prop up more and check my strut angle tonight and run it tomorrow.

[1945dave]

A couple of things. While I don't think it hurts all that much the pointed streamline tail nut does not help you. One it is larger than the prop and strut which makes for a blunt surface causing drag. On a surfacing setup this might not matter all that much but like I said it does not help you.

I also notice you are using the ES3 or are those ES5 battery connectors? Most of us are using 5.5 mm bullet connectors, some guys are moving to 8 mm bullets and even heavier gage wire to provide all the electrical power available with less resistance and heat.

I see you are a full scale aircraft mechanic so you should have all the smarts needed to handle anything we are doing here, but I will relate a story of one guy that drove 100 miles to meet me so I could help him figure what was wrong with his Genesis. It turned out he was running two 2S batteries like you are but they were wired in parallel so he was under powered by a factor of 50 percent. Since you also run a Revolt I think this is not your problem but any issue is going to be something simple.