Should I quit FE?!! Can't take it anymore ! Can't slice CC1515 water jacket on!

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  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by Southwest View Post
    Ok, I bought a piece of pcv pipe and cut it 1/4" shorter than the motor. I bought 1/8" O rings and then took a dremel with a buffing wheel and buffed the inside of pipe and buffed down a little over a 1/16" on both ends. I tried the ring to see how it fit and if it needed buffing , I would do it again till it took a little effort to slide ring on. When both rings were 3/16" in on both ends, I would use conformal coating and let it dry for an hour. Next do other end and let setup. I took 2 pieces of 1/8" brass to the length of 5/8" and drilled a hole on top and one on the other end and inserted both brass pieces and CA'D it. Never leaked. Almost all my boats have pcv pipe motor coolers. I just tried it for the h*** of it to see if it worked.
    That is ingenious! I will have to spend some time and look into it, always fun to find ways to come up with original ideas!
    Thanks for sharing!

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  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by NativePaul View Post
    Do it, use that truck motor in your truck and get a boat or air motor for your boat.

    You don't need the fins, the thicker can, the sealed endbells or the extended wires that the Castle truck motors offer, they are all advantages for an off road truck, but you dont need or want any of it for a boat. A genuine Neu smooth can will be lighter from the thinner can and lack of fins, lower resistance due to not having the extended wires and the solder connection for them, better cooling due to the ventilated endbells, a lower CoG as you can mount it lower without the fins, and lastly the new cooling jacket you would have to get for it would go on nicely and stop you quitting the sport or killing yourself, oh and the regular benefits of having a motor that is not made in China, be it better materials, better tolerances, QA, national pride, or wanting to help your own economy .
    Finned motor is not necessary on a boat, this motor was a great deal and I just couldn't pass it , plus I was always curious about the CC 1515's
    Got to say, love that Neu motor , it feels good to just hold it in your hands! And yes, Made in USA
    Hehehe, I was laughing when I posted the OP because I was reminded of recent comments on other threads.
    Last edited by tlandauer; 05-12-2013, 02:14 AM.

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  • NativePaul
    replied
    Originally posted by tlandauer View Post
    maybe it's a sign that I need to use this motor on my HPI nitro truck, been wanting to convert that for 4 or 5 years now.
    Do it, use that truck motor in your truck and get a boat or air motor for your boat.

    You don't need the fins, the thicker can, the sealed endbells or the extended wires that the Castle truck motors offer, they are all advantages for an off road truck, but you dont need or want any of it for a boat. A genuine Neu smooth can will be lighter from the thinner can and lack of fins, lower resistance due to not having the extended wires and the solder connection for them, better cooling due to the ventilated endbells, a lower CoG as you can mount it lower without the fins, and lastly the new cooling jacket you would have to get for it would go on nicely and stop you quitting the sport or killing yourself, oh and the regular benefits of having a motor that is not made in China, be it better materials, better tolerances, QA, national pride, or wanting to help your own economy .

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  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by lenny View Post
    Did you take the water nipples out first and try it ?
    Also you may want to cool the Oring so they shrink some,
    And than try putting the jacket on over them.
    You could also warm the jacket some to.
    Lenny,thanks, yes, I checked the inside to make sure it was smooth without any tool marks and removed the nipple before inserting the motor.

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2

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  • Southwest
    replied
    >>>>>
    Last edited by Southwest; 05-13-2013, 01:37 PM.

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  • lenny
    replied
    Did you take the water nipples out first and try it ?
    Also you may want to cool the Oring so they shrink some,
    And than try putting the jacket on over them.
    You could also warm the jacket some to.

    Leave a comment:


  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by Heaving Earth View Post
    Just get a new jacket man. Mine was a snap. Shouldn't be any trouble to get one of these on there
    I agree, in the end this is the best solution.

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  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by Heaving Earth View Post
    Mine slide on so easy it was silly
    I know, that one end can go on w/o any effort.

    Originally posted by kendt View Post
    Ya that sucks. I found it easier to put the first oring on then the jacket then the second. I used a small blunt stick to push the oring into the jacket ends once evrything is on
    So you mean one side of your "O" ring is not in the groove, you just pushed it in and it is held by the sheer of the narrowness of the gap? Maybe after I get my new spare rings I will give that a try.
    I may try to get another jacket, had to order direct from HRC, OSE is out of them, it will cost me another $26, but I will live longer, if it still doesn't work, maybe it's a sign that I need to use this motor on my HPI nitro truck, been wanting to convert that for 4 or 5 years now, lol... just don't want to open another can of worms.

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  • Heaving Earth
    replied
    Just get a new jacket man. Mine was a snap. Shouldn't be any trouble to get one of these on there

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  • kendt
    replied
    Ya that sucks. I found it easier to put the first oring on then the jacket then the second. I used a small blunt stick to push the oring into the jacket ends once evrything is on

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  • Heaving Earth
    replied
    Mine slide on so easy it was silly

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  • tlandauer
    replied
    Originally posted by kendt View Post
    might be a dumb question but you didnt try to slide it on with the o rings installed did you?
    I followed the instruction which is to put the 'O" rings in the grooves of the motor can on each end, then slide on the jacket, one end goes in effortlessly, the other end is impossible, I suspect for some machining reasons the i.d. is smaller towards that end, however small the amount it may be, just enough to give a problem.
    I should clarify that in the begining, I realized one end was impossible , so I turned around and the other end went on without a hitch, one can randomly select any of the two ends on the jacket as the first to go on the motor can. So now with the "no-problem end" on and as the motor is pushed towards the "narrower" end, you can tell that it is impossible. The inside of the jacket is like a funnel.
    Last edited by tlandauer; 05-11-2013, 08:00 PM.

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  • kendt
    replied
    might be a dumb question but you didnt try to slide it on with the o rings installed did you?

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  • Should I quit FE?!! Can't take it anymore ! Can't slice CC1515 water jacket on!

    OK, I am not easily flustered, but I have a beautiful CC1515 I got here from a member and ordered a "smooth" bored water jacket for this finned motor. Spent the entire afternoon, ruined all the "o" rings, long story short, the i.d. of the jacket is not even on each end, one side I could slide on easily, the other side would have the "o" ring pinched and the "o" ring would ''escape'' to the water outlet hole in the jacket, thus all "o" rings were damaged. I used silicone shock oil, so lubrication is not an issue, I wonder if this is just a case of bad luck or those who have used this motor had similar experience with these "smooth bored" jacket.
    BTW, the title purely means I want to poke fun at myself, little bit of self deprecating humor always cheers myself up.

    p.s., I guess if all else fails I will use my old trick which is to use silicone sealing compound ( GE household variety) to seal the OUTSIDE gap between the motor and the jacket.
    Last edited by tlandauer; 05-11-2013, 07:31 PM.
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