I used epoxy to glue mine in, and epoxy mixed with micro balloons to form fillets to increase the gluing area.
I also needed to file the hole out to fit the front bearing for a mega 22 series motor, seems like these were made slightly undersize.
It weighs 35g which I think is quite a lot for a mount, I guess thats the price you pay for adjustability, all my previous mounts have been ply or ply/balsa laminate and no heavier than the side cheeks alone without the metalwork, It is sturdier than those I've made before but not having any problems with my mounts I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing.
motor mount bond
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Let's all sing along, you know the tune......
In the Morning...
In the Evening...
Ain't we got Fumes!??
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Man, you continue to impress me ! lol [ Jes' be careful of the fumes from your newOriginally posted by Bill-SOCAL View Post... breathe deep the gathering gloom, watch lights fade from every room ....
[
] rig !
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I like the way it smell. I close the doors, turn off the fan and breathe deep the gathering gloom, watch lights fade from every room ....
Wait. OK, maybe doors open from now on!!
But it does stick just about anything to anything and has nice thickness to it. You can get it at Pep Boys (Autozone, Kragen, ec). and most hardware stores.
Hardens very fast and I keep it in the field box now for fast repairs at the pond.
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Oh yeah that stuff sticks great but, It does have a wild oder... Made me dizzy! I used It to glue wood to ABS.Originally posted by Bill-SOCAL View PostTwo of my favorite "glues" are Goop and Plasti-Bond. Just got turned onto the latter (thanks Tony). Works great.
Devcon has one brand:
Sticks almost anything to anything and has some viscosity to it. Dries hard as metal and is cream colored.
Epoxy is iffy stuff when bonding to a polyester resin hull. This stuff sticks like mad.
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Two of my favorite "glues" are Goop and Plasti-Bond. Just got turned onto the latter (thanks Tony). Works great.
Devcon has one brand:
Sticks almost anything to anything and has some viscosity to it. Dries hard as metal and is cream colored.
Epoxy is iffy stuff when bonding to a polyester resin hull. This stuff sticks like mad.
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I was going to go on the tuesday but it got canceled because of weather and I didn't hear about the rescheduled date.
I am going on 4/15 though for the vintage and UL testing
Jim
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I did - Mr. P's...wow is it light - too light if you ask me. I'm sure that's what you meant.Originally posted by JimClark View PostYou didn't end up with one of Pete's boats did you?
Jim
...seems like light contact would destroy this boat. I'm a bit scared to drive it for fear of getting it shredded - not that that will stop me. Tunnel Flexes a ton too.
Thanks for the pics Darin, I think I'm gonna have to reinforce the tub with CF like you did.
BTW - Jim were you at Stan Sayre's last week (or was it 2 weeks ago?) when Miss Beacon Plumbing was testing? ...I got some pretty neat detail shots of sponson shapes, turn fin angles, etcetera - a bunch of geeky stuff if anyone's looking...no good prop shots though.Last edited by Ctonez; 03-30-2008, 10:57 PM.
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Ahh I ususlly double the thickness inder the motor and shaft plus leave a couple of frames intact to help stiffen the area.
I understand now
Jim
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The tunnel area was basically unsupported... The boat doesn't flex... it's good and rigid, but under the drivetrain was just the thin ply... Not a big deal... a little well-placed carbon tubing and some epoxy and it's good to go!Originally posted by JimClark View PostAre you saying Marks boat flexes?
That mount is feather-light... Not much there to weigh anything... I'd use this style mount over the bent aluminum stuff if it will fit any day... Just supports the motor weight better...
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How much does that motor mount weigh? I like the adjustment it offers maybe I should get one for the resurected 67 Bardahl. those are some trick fasteners to hold the motor in also. Are you using a thrust bearing at the motor?
jim
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Are you saying Marks boat flexes? Man that would surprise me. I know the boats I build are good and stiff especially under the drive train. You didn't end up with one of Pete's boats did you? Shoot I think the 1/16th scale boat I am building is going to end up being heavy also.
JimLast edited by JimClark; 03-26-2008, 12:39 AM.
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Perhaps... but I think you 1/10th scale guys build these things too light... (perhaps a reason why some of them sell off their boats at the end of every season?? ) I had to do something to make the tub less flexible... That tunnel changing shape all the way around the course with the motor is hopping around not only makes for an ill-handling boat, but it is tough on drivelines as well... I prefer things to be a lot more rigid. A few ounces of additional weight are more than made up for by the predictability and reliability of a solid setup... The tunnel is now FLAT, unwarped, and very solid enough to handle the power... All good!Originally posted by JimClark View PostSometimes things are over engineered too Darin. As long as you don't need all the extra strength the tubing add's then the simpler way will work just as well.
I don't "overengineer".... I just engineer enough to be reliable and fast, and to survive the race season...
Having said all that... I guess I'd better hope this thing is still fast...
Last edited by Darin Jordan; 03-26-2008, 12:23 AM.
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