All things being equal - Better ESC - lower temps?

[Doug Smock]

Yes sir we saw the published data on some of the controls. I thought that maybe you had done some testing of your own.
I would expect the 60 amp UL-1 control to get hot @100 amp loads regardless of it's IR.
Thanks,
D.

[lohring]

A little quick Googling shows a chart by Joerg on connector resistance here.
The product web sites give these ESC resistances:
Turnigy Marine 120 .7 micro ohms
Turnigy Marine 180 .7 micro ohms
Tower UL-1 ESC 3 micro ohms (That's why it gets hot with 100 amp currents)
Schultze 40.333 .59 micro ohms (That's one reason it is rated at over 300 amps)
My Hyperion charger says my Gens Ace and Turnigy 40 C batteries have between 15 and 20 micro ohms resistance. Better batteries can have 1/2 that.

Lohring Miller

[oscarel]

Thats good. Probably a good investment would be something to read your amp draw so you know exactly were you are.

Hi Oscarel;

Yep, blueprinted the outdrive as Darin suggested and Lipos are new and decent quality. I wil try the outdrive a bit higher although she seems to run at a good attitude on the water. Next step is EC5 connectors all around.

Good disccusion guys, and its not so much about the Stiletto (although that advice is appreciated), but more to educate myself about ESC's and temps...

Eric

[Doug Smock]

The stock ESCs that come with ready to run boats often have a higher internal resistance.

Lohring Miller

That's pretty matter of fact Lohring. You must have done, or been part of some extensive testing.
Please share the results with us.
D.

[lohring]

Heat is about resistance. The heat generated is proportional to the resistance times the current squared. When you increase the current even a little, the heat generated goes up quickly. The big difference between low cost and more expensive equipment is the internal resistance. This is true of connectors, motors, batteries and ESCs. The stock ESCs that come with ready to run boats often have a higher internal resistance.

Lohring Miller

[Racer944]

Hi Oscarel;

Yep, blueprinted the outdrive as Darin suggested and Lipos are new and decent quality. I wil try the outdrive a bit higher although she seems to run at a good attitude on the water. Next step is EC5 connectors all around.

Good disccusion guys, and its not so much about the Stiletto (although that advice is appreciated), but more to educate myself about ESC's and temps...

Eric

[oscarel]

if you're pulling too many amps on stock setup you probably have the outdrive too low or too much friction in the outdrive cable. Have you looked at this thread? Darin Jordan here who frequents here I believe help design and test the Stilletto so it should have no issues with heat if set up properly and the lipo's are not bad.

[ilovethis]

thanks

[Rumdog]

Go to the Aquacraft RTR section. The UL-1 has it's own forum.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-Hydro-Q-amp-A

[ilovethis]

i just got my ul1 and right now every thing is stock what can i do to go up a notch

[jeepme]

What size battery wires are on the ESC. I had this issue with my MC because my battery wires where 12awg and the esc was 14awg. Once i changed the esc to a seaking 120 ( which has 12awg battery connections ) my connector and battery heat dropped.

[driftah]

motor will get hot no matter what esc if not loaded properly,the esc will usually fry before a motor will. a bigger esc might help slightly but a lot depends on your prop loading ie size and current demands in the boat..... a bigger esc will just allow the motor to draw more amps if the batts can supply it.heat usually means inadequate connectors or improper prop size or possibly a non free running drivetrain(binding).

[ilovethis]

sorry tochime in just have a qiick question sanyijr if im running my stock ul-1 motor with a higher esc wont that keep my temps down?

[jamespl]

When i say warm they arent really hot, you can keep your hands on them and the packs are the same as the connectors. I will have to check them with my infrared heat thingy when i find it. So what are acceptable temps on packs and connectors? also surely if it was pulling too many amps the esc would be hot?
I think ec5 connetors or similar should be common practice to change to on fast electric, i dont know much but i know deans arent great, found that out when they melted on my bj26.

[sanyijr]

Im running the stock setup but with ec5 connectors and they get warm but what i find strange is that my 7.4v 5800mah 25c batteries run cooler than my 7.4v 5000mah 40c, both sets are turnigy. So how does that work?

I am not sure how the "C" rating is set, but even with higher C ratings, It is not a guarentee that temps won't get warm. Most likely just that the temps would get out of control HOT under the suggested C discharge... Warm I would think is normal in any case. There are many conditions as well that can build increased resistance in the battery. Poor wire connections, poor or bad wires, connectors, long wires, older batteries with higher internal resistance ...... It still amazes me to think that you can discharge these suckers in 5 minutes or even way less time and get warm to touch temps. Imagine pulling these amps from a NICDs. I fried so many of those in the 80s. MMmmmmmm melting plastic!