Water proofing and basic lines

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  • fweasel
    replied
    Awesome, thanks Diegoboy. This is a good project to follow.

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  • Diegoboy
    replied
    This thread is being re-opened at the request of a member. Please uphold the standards OSE members are known for.

    Thanks!

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  • Diegoboy
    replied
    Let's stay civil guys!! Thanks

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  • dasboata
    replied
    Originally posted by Miltoggie View Post
    Thank you Fluid! Type of reassurance I am looking for, I also bought 40x40 cooling plates that will go where the fans were. I have experience with this esc but none watercooling or waterproofing so I do appreciate it.
    another thing on the tygon yellow fuel line,, it should be silicone the tygon if it gets hot will soften and might blow off !!! Also I would loose the fan grills it will restrict cooling

    Leave a comment:


  • CraigP
    replied
    Miltoggie, I can send you a link for good caps if interested. If not, just disregard. That’s a nice cooling mod, I applaude those that “go beyond the covers”!

    Leave a comment:


  • CraigP
    replied
    Can I ask what voltage you will be running? You posted excellent pics, and I invite folks to note the voltage rating. Those are 35V caps on an ESC that says 8s. That’s just not enough margin for 8s. I would recommend using 50V caps on 8s for more voltage headroom and make it last longer with the ripple current.

    I think it’s sad these ESC manufacturers cut corners like that... I’ve had to change all the stock caps in my 8s controllers over to 50V. Note: only applies to 8s operation. 6s and lower should work fine, although the ESR on these stock caps is pretty high, meaning their ripple current rating is low...

    Leave a comment:


  • Miltoggie
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post
    For those with little experience with ESCs, let me confirm that the OP’s cooling should work fine. It is almost identical to the Castle Hydra series, just with one pair of lines instead of two. There are more efficient cooling mods which involve removing the extrusions, but for a simple mod it will work.

    For years I ran a heavy P Sport Hydro with a Neu 1521/1.5D and an aircooled Castle ICE 200 controller. I simply installed a 40mm computer fan on top of the ICE using zip ties and completed well over 100 race heats with 100% controller reliability. No water cooling.



    .
    Thank you Fluid! Type of reassurance I am looking for, I also bought 40x40 cooling plates that will go where the fans were. I have experience with this esc but none watercooling or waterproofing so I do appreciate it.

    Leave a comment:


  • dasboata
    replied
    Originally posted by Miltoggie View Post
    So I am in the middle of setting up two Castle XLX esc for their voyage in my zelos along with two TP Power motors. I went with basic water proof MG Chemicals Silicone Conforming Coating on the boards, drilled out the small fin on the heat sink to add a 4mm aluminum tube for water cooling and about to add some MG chemicals Silicone Heat Transfer Compound between the tube and the heat sink. The tubes fit in snug, trying to see i I am missing anything on these escs?

    They will each be running Ripple Killers’ cap pack which run great on my speed cars.





    are those 4060 or 4070 what KV ?

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  • fweasel
    replied
    Good to know, thanks Fluid.

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  • Fluid
    replied
    For those with little experience with ESCs, let me confirm that the OP’s cooling should work fine. It is almost identical to the Castle Hydra series, just with one pair of lines instead of two. There are more efficient cooling mods which involve removing the extrusions, but for a simple mod it will work.

    For years I ran a heavy P Sport Hydro with a Neu 1521/1.5D and an aircooled Castle ICE 200 controller. I simply installed a 40mm computer fan on top of the ICE using zip ties and completed well over 100 race heats with 100% controller reliability. No water cooling.



    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Miltoggie
    replied
    One of the guys on a fb group put up his pic so I just ordered a pair of cooling plates to fit right where the fans were at, so will be adding that as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • fweasel
    replied
    Seems like minimal surface area contact between those tubes and cooling fins. Wouldn't a cooling plate work better?

    Leave a comment:


  • Miltoggie
    started a topic Water proofing and basic lines

    Water proofing and basic lines

    So I am in the middle of setting up two Castle XLX esc for their voyage in my zelos along with two TP Power motors. I went with basic water proof MG Chemicals Silicone Conforming Coating on the boards, drilled out the small fin on the heat sink to add a 4mm aluminum tube for water cooling and about to add some MG chemicals Silicone Heat Transfer Compound between the tube and the heat sink. The tubes fit in snug, trying to see i I am missing anything on these escs?

    They will each be running Ripple Killers’ cap pack which run great on my speed cars.





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