Darin's Vac-U-Pickle

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  • Doug Smock
    replied
    Darin is right.

    Jeff, Darin,
    I did some checking in the shop when I saw your posts on the wire drive.
    It looks like moving the motor forward and the cells (LiPos) back you will still be able to get the CG where you need to with some adjustment.
    The only issue maybe if your two cell packs are wider than about 1 3/4"

    Doug

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    Thanks Darin...

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  • Darin Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboy320 View Post
    What size flex cable are you thinking for this, .13 or .15?

    I don't put anything less than .150 in any boat that is going to run open 2S or higher... I'd do .150 in this boat if I were doing flex for an LSH setup or N2... I am likely going to set mine up for LSH with an SV27 motor (our club rules) and I may follow Jeff's lead and use a .078 Wire... That's what I'm using in my 1/10th scales and it seems plenty strong... If I decide to just keep it simple and build it as designed, however, I'll use .150 cable... reliable, simple to work with, and strong... K.I.S.S. basically...

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    What size flex cable are you thinking for this, .13 or .15?

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  • Darin Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View Post
    Great hull for wire drives. Easy to put in and I will be running a .078 in one.
    Jeff,

    Just so you know (if you don't already have one in your hand), the stock motor location on these is going to necessitate a pretty steep motor angle and as a result, a fairly arched stuffing tube... I was thinking of wire also, but if I do it, I'll be mounting the motor way forward to relax the shaft... Might be more work than I want to do, so I may just build it straight up and as designed (for one... ) and just have some fun with it...

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  • Jeff Wohlt
    replied
    Great hull for wire drives. Easy to put in and I will be running a .078 in one.

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  • Doug Smock
    replied
    Typo flyboy, thanks for catching it.
    Here are some tips for painting styrene,


    Here are a few pics of the setup we used on the prototypes.

    Doug
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Doug Smock; 04-01-2008, 08:16 PM. Reason: Added pics

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    Originally posted by D.Smock View Post
    I'm afraid that rudder is too short. You need to go with a 4.5" rudder minimum.

    Doug
    Doug, I see on one of your previous posts, you used a 3.5" Fuller rudder. Was that OK, or is the larger 4.5" you mention above recommended?

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  • Doug Smock
    replied
    I'm afraid that rudder is too short. You need to go with a 3.5" rudder minimum.

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Smock; 04-01-2008, 07:03 PM.

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    Originally posted by D.Smock View Post
    How long is that rudder?

    Doug
    From OSE web site,

    Rudder blade below the rudder bracket measures 3" x 1"

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  • Doug Smock
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboy320 View Post
    Can the rudder arm be turned upside down and swapped to the other so the rudder is on the left side of the prop? Can't really tell by looking at a picture of it.

    The reason I ask is I see the boat is designed to have the rudder servo on the left side "Pre-drilled servo box in port rib made to fit a HiTec HS-225BB Mighty Mini Servo."

    EDIT: Well just found out on another board that it can be mounted on either side...
    How long is that rudder?

    Doug

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    Originally posted by Heath M View Post
    the solinger hardware is probably the best choice for this size boat,very light and easy to install

    Heath
    Can the rudder arm be turned upside down and swapped to the other so the rudder is on the left side of the prop? Can't really tell by looking at a picture of it.

    The reason I ask is I see the boat is designed to have the rudder servo on the left side "Pre-drilled servo box in port rib made to fit a HiTec HS-225BB Mighty Mini Servo."

    EDIT: Well just found out on another board that it can be mounted on either side...
    Last edited by flyboy320; 04-01-2008, 06:54 AM.

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  • Heath M
    replied
    the solinger hardware is probably the best choice for this size boat,very light and easy to install

    Heath

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  • flyboy320
    replied
    I'm on the waiting list for one of these and am trying to consider the hardware options.

    I'm a newbie at this, and only bought FE RRR, just added my radio and batts, and off I went, and only Mono's at that. So from what I see from Doug's post, he used;

    Fullers 1" super strut bracket, short super strut .150, aluminum skid fin, 3.5" rudder, and .150 Hughy cable

    So besides the rudder base & post, is there anything else that's needed (I guess the stuffing tube and teflon liner)?

    What about a Solinger Hydro System from OSE, would that work?

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=sol-hydro

    Anyone got any photos they could post to show the setup?

    Many thanks... :)

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  • Diegoboy
    replied
    Finally!

    Phil emailed me last night telling me that MY pickle will ship Wednesday. After many months of waiting (seems like a year) I'm getting mine with the prototype cowl.

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